Buenos Aires, Argentina

In mid-December I flew from Sao Paulo to Buenos Aires to take Spanish lessons and start my Argentinean adventure. Buenos Aires, shortened to Bs As by locals, is a large and grand metropolis with many different neighbourhoods. The architecture, parks  and monuments of Recoleta, where I stayed most of the time, gave the area a European feel. Below are some of my favourite photos of the city.

Buenos Aires, Argentina

Floralis Generica, a large sculpture with petals that open and close

Buenos Aires, Argentina

A group of people kneeling (praying?) in front of the imposing University of Buenos Aires Law Faculty building

Buenos Aires, Argentina

Argentinean steak has a fantastic reputation, one that steaks I ate in restaurants did not meet. Pictured above is the best steak I ate – perhaps the best I have ever eaten anywhere. This tender morsel was cooked at my homestay host Pilar’s relative’s house for a pre-Christmas party

Buenos Aires, Argentina

Christmas eve late lunch with fellow Spanish students (in Argentina dinner usually doesn’t start until after 9pm)

Buenos Aires, Argentina

La Recoleta Cemetery, the home of Eva Peron’s tomb along with that of many other important Argentinians

Buenos Aires, Argentina

There are five sets of pedestrian lights to cross to get from one side of the world’s widest avenue (9 de Julio) to the other

Buenos Aires, Argentina

Another view of 9 de Julio Avenue, this one featuring an image of Eva Peron on a tall building and many traffic lights

Buenos Aires, Argentina

Argentina’s poor contemporary economic history and import restrictions mean many old cars are still on the road including this classic ute seen in Palermo

Buenos Aires, Argentina

Dining with my former boss who was visiting Buenos Aires prior to moving to the city for her next job

Buenos Aires, Argentina

Centro Cultural Recoleta statues

Buenos Aires, Argentina

A couple playing guitars next to a monument and across from statues

Buenos Aires, Argentina

Dusk lighting the redeveloped suburb of Puerto Madera

Buenos Aires, Argentina

A fashion model in need of a good feed being photographed on a Puerto Madera bridge

I look forward to reuniting with Buenos Aires in a few weeks.

Mariza Epicentro Permaculture Farm, Tucano, Bahia, Brazil

Mariza Epicentro, Tucano, Bahia, Brazil

Sign to Mariza Epicentro in front of a cactus species used to secure property boundaries

In early December I enjoyed a wonderful nine days on Marsha Hanzi’s Mariza Epicentro permaculture farm. I first met Marsha at a wedding in New Zealand in 2013 and I looked forward to visiting her farm.

Mariza Epicentro is located 20 kilometres by dirt road from Tucano, a regional centre five hours by bus from Salvador, the capital of Brazil’s Bahia state. The easiest way to get there from Tucano bus station is by taking one of the waiting cars (R$60; like a private taxi). 

Mariza Epicentro’s main property has separate several buildings and the farm is divided into different paddocks to keep animals and grow crops. Luis Carlos looked after most day to day farm operations with the assistance of his brother and volunteers. Breakfast and lunch were cooked by either a mother or her daughter and the farm also employed a handyman.

Although the weather was very dry and hot (~40 degrees Celsius every day) the farm felt alive. Wild and domestic animals abounded and the primary farm property was greener than surrounding properties, a result of several years of permaculture.

There was so much life on the property that in the office I took two or three hours to notice a snake skin on the desk centimetres from my laptop. Because the skin didn’t move or make a sound I didn’t see it!

Mariza Epicentro, Tucano, Bahia, Brazil

Mariza Epicentro’s guest accommodation block

Mariza Epicentro, Tucano, Bahia, Brazil

My washing hanging on an outside line

Mariza Epicentro, Tucano, Bahia, BrazilOn of the outdoor ‘long drop’ toilets Mariza Epicentro, Tucano, Bahia, Brazil

My room in the guest accommodation quarters

Mariza Epicentro, Tucano, Bahia, Brazil

A dry field, part of Mariza Epicentro’s newer, secondary property

Mariza Epicentro, Tucano, Bahia, Brazil

The half moon during the day

Mariza Epicentro, Tucano, Bahia, Brazil

Cacti flower and buds

Mariza Epicentro, Tucano, Bahia, Brazil

An amazing sunset

Mariza Epicentro, Tucano, Bahia, Brazil

With farmer Luis Carlos; we got on very well even though not having a common language

Mariza Epicentro, Tucano, Bahia, Brazil

The open cooking, dining and socialising building

Mariza Epicentro, Tucano, Bahia, Brazil

With Marsha on the last morning of my stay

Marsha started Mariza Epicentro as a challenge to show that permaculture can work in marginal country. Over the years Marsha has enriched the land, planted  and added buildings, with more improvements in the pipeline. For anyone interested in sustainable agriculture or self sufficiency Mariza Epicentro is a fantastic place to visit.

More photos and text from my time on Mariza Epicentro:
Wild Animals
Domestic Animals
Around Mariza Epicentro
Food and Crops Part 1
Food and Crops Part 2

Mariza Epicentro, Tucano, Bahia, Brazil, Food and Crops Part 2

Continuing on from Food and Crops Part 1.

Mariza Epicentro, Tucano, Bahia, Brazil, crops and food

This species of cacti is grown in the Tucano area for both animal and human consumption. The shrubs behind the cactus are grown for a windbreak

Mariza Epicentro, Tucano, Bahia, Brazil, crops and food

The final cashew fruit left on the Mariza Epicentro trees. The monkeys later devoured this fruit

Mariza Epicentro, Tucano, Bahia, Brazil, crops and food

Kamyla and Marcio playing with fallen cashew tree leaves. We bagged the leaves from a neighbouring farm for incorporation into Epicentro composting

Mariza Epicentro, Tucano, Bahia, Brazil, crops and food

A corn paddock we harvested. The corn cobs are harvested dry and hard. Note the cacti planted as a second crop

Mariza Epicentro, Tucano, Bahia, Brazil, crops and food

The corn harvesters standing behind the trailer of bagged corn

Mariza Epicentro, Tucano, Bahia, Brazil, crops and food

Luis Carlos’ brother and Kamyla harvesting cassava by digging out the edible roots

Mariza Epicentro, Tucano, Bahia, Brazil, crops and food

Acacia pods and blossom on a tree. The acacia pods are harvested for feed

Mariza Epicentro, Tucano, Bahia, Brazil, crops and food

Marcio driving the car towing a trailer load of firewood. Driving through the sandy road with the trailer took multiple attempts

Mariza Epicentro, Tucano, Bahia, Brazil, crops and food

A huge unripe cashew nut. The cashew fruit will develop above the nut

Mariza Epicentro, Tucano, Bahia, Brazil, Food and Crops Part 1

Mariza Epicentro grows many crops organically and following permaculture practices for both animal and human consumption. These include corn (the primary crop), cassava, cacti, cashew, mango, pumpkin, herbs and vegetables.

Every day a cook prepared hot breakfasts and lunches in addition to a light morning tea. There was no formal evening meal although leftovers from lunch were often available.

Mariza Epicentro, Tucano, Bahia, Brazil, Food and Crops

Lunch: salad, pumpkin, meat, beans and rice

Mariza Epicentro, Tucano, Bahia, Brazil, Food and Crops

A chilli plant shining in the late afternoon glow

Mariza Epicentro, Tucano, Bahia, Brazil, Food and Crops

The kitchen sink piping leads to the mango tree and immature banana and coconut palms, eliminating the need to use precious water specifically for these relatively thirsty plants

Mariza Epicentro, Tucano, Bahia, Brazil, Food and Crops

Lunch on another day including polenta (coarsely ground corn; bottom right of main plate) made from corn grown and ground on the farm

Mariza Epicentro, Tucano, Bahia, Brazil, Food and Crops

Removing corn from the cob

Mariza Epicentro, Tucano, Bahia, Brazil, Food and Crops

Plantain, cassava, rice, lettuce, pork offal and beans

Mariza Epicentro, Tucano, Bahia, Brazil, Food and Crops

Luis Carlos straining coconut as part of the process to make coconut oil. The coconuts are harvested from the ground at another property in the district

Mariza Epicentro, Tucano, Bahia, Brazil, Food and Crops

The corn huskers and graders: myself, Luis Carlos, Kamyla and Marcio

Around Mariza Epicentro, Tucano, Bahia, Brazil

Photos from around Mariza Epicentro, including a hike to a nearby ravine and a memorable visit to the local village bars.

Around Mariza

Man riding a donkey on the dirt track next to Mariza Epicentro

Around Mariza

On the Sunday morning Kamyla, Marcio and I braved the heat and hiked to a nearby ravine

Around Mariza

One of many lizards on the ravine walls

Around Mariza

Myself, Kamyla and Marcio in the ravine

Around Mariza

Interesting rock formations caused by erosion in the ravine

Around Mariza

Marcio and Kamyla walking back from the ravine to Mariza Epicentro. Note the leather off-cuts used to stabilise the sandy track

Around Mariza

Sunday evening is the main night out in the local village. There are two village bars next to each other and neither of them have any advertising whatsoever on the outside. Every local knows they are bars so why advertise?

Around Mariza

Outside the first bar

Around Mariza

The bar area of the first bar. The poster to the right of the television is advertising a duet concert at a local farm. Duets are popular in this region

Around Mariza

A donkey underneath a mature cashew tree

Around Mariza

Vultures near the bus stop where I caught the school bus from Mariza to Tucano. An animal had died overnight and more than twenty vultures were hanging around the carcase vicinity

Mariza Epicentro, Tucano, Bahia, Brazil: Domestic Animals

Mariza Epicentro kept several species of domesticated animals including pigs, chickens, goats, sheep, cats, ducks and Geraldo the goose.

Mariza Epicentro, Tucano, Bahia, Brazil, Domestic Animals

Chickens eagerly awaiting a feed

Mariza Epicentro, Tucano, Bahia, Brazil, Domestic Animals

The juvenile pigs enjoying food leftover from the kitchen. The wooden contraptions around their heads are designed to stop their heads getting stuck in fences

Mariza Epicentro, Tucano, Bahia, Brazil, Domestic Animals

Geraldo the goose is one of the most moody and irritable things I’ve come across. He attacked people who came near him, managing to bite the cook

Mariza Epicentro, Tucano, Bahia, Brazil, Domestic Animals

The farmers and volunteers inspecting a sheep and goat trough at Mariza Epicentro’s secondary property

Mariza Epicentro, Tucano, Bahia, Brazil, Domestic Animals

One of the cats eyeing off cake

Mariza Epicentro, Tucano, Bahia, Brazil, Domestic Animals

Geraldo the goose bossing a duck. Cashew leaves frame the photo

Mariza Epicentro, Tucano, Bahia, Brazil, Domestic Animals

Cats at the food bowl

Mariza Epicentro, Tucano, Bahia, Brazil, Domestic Animals

The billy goat showing disdain

Mariza Epicentro, Tucano, Bahia, Brazil, Domestic Animals

Volunteer Marcio feeding the goats and sheep lower grade corn cobs

Mariza Epicentro, Tucano, Bahia, Brazil, Domestic Animals

Two sheep, one with wool and the other without. Like the pigs, one of the sheep has sticks around its neck to stop it from getting its head stuck in the fence

Mariza Epicentro, Tucano, Bahia, Brazil, Domestic Animals

Goats running around with a neighbouring property in the background

Mariza Epicentro, Tucano, Bahia, Brazil: Wild Animals

At the start of December I spent 9 wonderful days at Mariza Epicentro, Marsha Hanzi’s permaculture farm in the Tucano province of Bahia state, north-eastern Brazil.

This, the first of several themed posts, contains photos of wild animals from or near the farm.

Wild Animals, Mariza Epicentro, Tucano, Bahia, Brazil

A monkey eating watermelon. A group of monkeys regularly visited and hung around the property

Wild Animals, Mariza Epicentro, Tucano, Bahia, Brazil

A toad enjoying the cool water in Geraldo the goose’s bowl. Toads were also regular farm visitors, with signs on buildings requesting people to keep doors shut to stop them from entering

Wild Animals, Mariza Epicentro, Tucano, Bahia, Brazil

A dragonfly, one of various insects encountered at Mariza Epicentro

Wild Animals, Mariza Epicentro, Tucano, Bahia, Brazil

One of the monkeys walking on a wire fence

Wild Animals, Mariza Epicentro, Tucano, Bahia, Brazil

A ~2 metre long iguana resting in a tree above the chicken cage, likely waiting for an opportunity to eat some eggs

Wild Animals, Mariza Epicentro, Tucano, Bahia, Brazil

Many, many species of birds visited the farm including two species of hummingbirds. This is a silhouette of the larger hummingbird

Wild Animals, Mariza Epicentro, Tucano, Bahia, Brazil

Another of the larger hummingbirds having a rare rest on a branch during the hot afternoon sun. Most of the time hummingbirds hovered from flower to flower and plant to plant making good photos difficult to takeWild Animals, Mariza Epicentro, Tucano, Bahia, Brazil

A juvenile monkey looking sideways for food

Wild Animals, Mariza Epicentro, Tucano, Bahia, BrazilLizards were common sights around the property, particularly away from the cats

Wild Animals, Mariza Epicentro, Tucano, Bahia, Brazil

This birds nest containing two white eggs is not very high off the ground but relies on the cactus plant’s spines for protection from predators

Wild Animals, Mariza Epicentro, Tucano, Bahia, Brazil

Another toad, this one on the road at dusk

On the farm I also saw pretos, animals that looked like a cross between a rabbit and a rat. Unfortunately they scampered away too fast for a clear photo.

Tucano Saturday Markets, Bahia, Brazil

From 30 November to 9 December last year I enjoyed a truly wonderful stay at the Mariza Epicentro, in Brazil’s north-eastern Bahia state (blog post to come). On the Saturday Marcio, Kamyla and I visited the nearest city, Tucano for market day.

Tucano is a regional centre and each Saturday, central Tucano is filled with market stalls selling fresh produce, clothes and almost everything else.

Tucano Saturday Markets, Bahia, Brazil

Early morning in the school van covering the 20km of dirt road to Tucano

Tucano Saturday Markets, Bahia, Brazil

Knives, knife sheaths and slingshots, Tucano markets

Tucano Saturday Markets, Bahia, Brazil

Enjoying cake and coffee, Tucano markets

Tucano Saturday Markets, Bahia, Brazil

Hats, baskets, bags and floor coverings, Tucano markets

Tucano Saturday Markets, Bahia, Brazil

Tucano is a long way from the sea and these fish are probably from polluted local (not so) freshwater

Tucano Saturday Markets, Bahia, Brazil

Marcio ‘drinking’ from a giant wooden spoon next to the spoon and trap stall (the local rats must be huge judging from the size of the traps in the foreground)

Tucano Saturday Markets, Bahia, Brazil

A car boot health products stall, Tucano markets

Tucano Saturday Markets, Bahia, Brazil

Herbs and spices, Tucano markets

Tucano Saturday Markets, Bahia, Brazil

Three bulbs of garlic for R$2 (about USD$0.50)

Tucano Saturday Markets, Bahia, Brazil

The sweet potato man, Tucano markets

Tucano Saturday Markets, Bahia, Brazil

Eating a fresh cashew fruit. Cashew fruit are juicy with a flavour similar to peach

Tucano Saturday Markets, Bahia, Brazil

Boy at stall selling okra, sweet potato, greens and capsicum

Tucano Saturday Markets, Bahia, Brazil

Every woman likes a clothing bargain, Tucano markets

Tucano Saturday Markets, Bahia, Brazil

Clothes stall with an awesome cheetah print temporary change room, Tucano markets

By 9:30am the temperature was already 32 degrees centigrade and we adjourned our market activities for a cold beer. Near the markets a duet sang Brazilian evangelical songs. Lunch was at an amazingly good value local cafe: 2 hamburgers, 1 toasted sandwich, 3 juices and 1 coffee for only R$14 (AUD$5).

Tucano Saturday Markets, Bahia, Brazil

Cars with adverts blaring from their loud speakers continuously drove around Tucano’s markets

Tucano Saturday Markets, Bahia, Brazil

Houses in a village we stopped at on the way from Tucano back to Mariza Epicentro

Squashed like sardines in the school van, we eventually made it back from Tucano to Mariza Epicentro.