160 kilometres west of Havana is the intriguing city of Pinar del Río. Not a major tourist destination itself, south-west of Pinar del Río is the famous Robaina cigar tobacco farm Finca El Pinar and to the north, Viñales’ wonderful landscapes.
Classic Chevrolets
After the new year in Havana Rocío and I were ready to go west. From Parque de la Fraternidad we caught the local P-12 bus to near the National Bus Terminal (Terminal de Ómnibus Nacionales). On 19 de Mayo Avenue we took an old Chevrolet van colectivo to Pinar del Río. Part way there the vehicle experienced a flat tyre.
Our classic Chevrolet van parked under a tree on the roadside between Havana and Pinar del Río
While changing the tyre, the driver used a rock to support the axle. The van’s lights contained images of Che Guevara.
Driver changing tyre on way to Pinar del Río; note the rock and the Che Guevara image
In central Pinar del Río we found Villa Odalys Arias, a lovely guest-house (casa particular) with an excellent host. Our spacious room included a fridge and two air conditioners: one disabled Soviet-built unit and a modern appliance with a remote control which required plugging-in to use. The uniqueness of Cuba.
A Chevrolet Bel Air looking electric parked near our Villa Odalys Arias accommodation
From Pinar del Río we visited Viñales for a day. Returning, we hitched a ride in a light blue Chevrolet towing an also-blue trailer.
Our ride from Viñales to Pinar del Río in front of a hardware store
Provincial History Museum (Museo Provincial de Historia)
Exploring the city we visited Pinar del Río’s Provincial History Museum. Displaying exhibits from various eras including colonial, independence and modern, the furniture designs inspired Rocío, a trained architect.
An exhibit at Pinar del Río’s Provincial History Museum
One museum section was dedicated to cigar-related items including brand stamps, lighters, boxes, labels and a photograph of the late Alejandro Robaina, a noted tobacco farmer and local identity.
Cigar Labels at Pinar del Río’s Provincial History Museum
Architecture and Art
Pinar del Río’s streets contain interesting art and ornate buildings built pre-revolution.
Hotel Globo’s ornate walls sparked our interest when walking past on the street
Hotel Globo’s lounge with its concrete floor, small television, basic bar and garden seating contrast with the past grandeur of its neoclassical columns and decorative cornices
Blue pre-revolution building in Pinar del Río
This mural features a smart phone, independence hero José Martí, a book and a tobacco leaf
A three dimensional optical illusion provided by veranda floor tiles
This house’s veranda is supported by a concrete tree column
Various original-condition tile patterns surround this house’s front door
A sculpture park on Isabel Rubio Street (Carretera Central)
Vladimir Ilich Lenin Primary School with a bust of José Martí in the entrance
Eating and Drinking
With fewer tourists, Pinar del Río lacks the relative culinary variety and sophistication of Viñales. We self-catered and also enjoyed street food from stalls near the bus station. In addition, Pinar del Río provided our worst meal in Cuba.
Good value and fresh pork with yellow rice and cucumber for 25 CUC (US$1) from near the bus station
One afternoon heavy rain hit. We popped into a state restaurant north of Parque de la Independencia to shelter and have lunch. The chips and rice were not fresh and the tuna tasted ancient and dry. If the fish was the initial item placed in Cuba’s first ever freezer, thawed on the day and then fried for an hour I would not be surprised. At least the tomato was okay. After eating tree rat stew at La Gran Piedra, Rocío knew she could eat anything and made herself consume this meal.
Our worst meal in Cuba
One evening we enjoyed cocktails at Café Ortúzar. Pinar del Río is also known for Guayabita del Pinar, a guava liquor we tasted in Viñales.
Toasting with a margarita (3.50 CUC) and a caipirinha (2 CUC) at Café Ortúzar
Overall, we enjoyed exploring Pinar del Río and the visits to Viñales and Finca El Pinar. Viñales would also be our next destination.
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