On 4 October 2016 Hurricane Matthew struck far eastern Cuba, causing more the US$2.5 billion of damage. Amazingly and thankfully, no direct fatalities were recorded although 4 people died more than a month later when a bridge damaged by Matthew collapsed near Moa. The biggest single infrastructure impact around Baracoa was the destruction of the Moa-Baracoa Highway bridge over the River Toa.

The remains of the bridge over the River Toa after Hurricane Matthew

While visiting in December 2016, a causeway was being constructed to allow vehicles to cross. In the interim, people crossed via boat and cable ferry as Rocío and I did to and from Alejandro de Humboldt National Park.

A causeway under construction across the River Toa

People crossing the River Toa by boat

A cable ferry shuttling passengers across the River Toa with one end of the bridge in the background

Baracoa is famous for its coconut, cacao and banana although these, like all fresh fruit and vegetables, were rarely sighted on our visit. The Category 5 hurricane destroyed the region’s crops. Palm and other trees lay fallen in the countryside.

A fallen palm tree is wedged in another tree’s trunk

Vegetation strewn across a mountainside behind a Baracoa statue of Taino war chief Hatuey

In Baracoa’s city, many rooftops remained unrepaired, debris lay on the beach and the baseball stadium was not operational.

Hurricane damaged roofs in Baracoa

Man fixing a damaged roof in Baracoa

Some of the roofs are visible in this video I recorded of a storm hitting the city:

Debris washed up on the beach

Damaged concrete at Baracoa’s baseball stadium

Debris in the stadium outfield; instead of advertisements the wall displays political slogans

Uprooted palm trees on mountains surrounding Baracoa

We observed some hurricane recovery evidence. Construction supplies were stacked near the stadium and several trucks had signs on them indicating they were reconstruction vehicles.

Hurricane recovery vehicles had signs in their front windows; this one stated ‘Climactic Impact Matthew’ (Afectacion Climatologica Matthew)

Key Baracoa industry tourism was struggling during our visit. Upon arrival, the driver took us to a casa particular (private accommodation) he knew. When we decided we wanted a place closer the coast the host was in tears. She had probably received very few guests if any since the hurricane.

A sign in a shop listing rations and subsidised prices for basic supplies for those impacted by Hurricane Matthew

Some of the locals were not impressed with the then president, Raúl Castro, feeling he had ignored the region until  Hurricane Matthew.

A billboard near the destroyed River Toa bridge displaying reconstruction pictures and a headline stating ‘The blow was very strong, but we will recover.’ (El golpe fue muy fuerte, pero nos recuperaremos.)

I am glad we made the decision to visit the region after the hurricane. Hopefully Baracoa and surrounding districts have well and truly recovered by now.