Waterfalls and Historic Sites in Northern Peru

Most tourists cross the Peru-Ecuador border near the Pacific Coast at Aguas Verdes. However, if you are adventurous, have time and speak some Spanish, I recommend crossing inland at La Balsa and seeing the region’s spectacular sites.

Joe standing in front of Yumbilla's lower waterfall

Standing in front of Yumbilla Falls, the world’s 5th highest waterfall

A post about my May 2017 visit to the area, part of a 2 year trip around South America and Cuba.

After a night bus from Huaraz, I enjoyed a day in Trujillo before another overnight Movil Tours coach ride to Pedro Ruiz. Adventures began early morning when the bus stopped face to face with an oncoming truck. Rain-induced landslides had narrowed the road to one lane. Continue reading

Huaraz, Peru, a Trekking Paradise

Huaraz, north of Lima, is the capital of Peru’s Ancash department and a great base for trekking the Andes Mountains.

Ancash has many peaks over 6,000 metres’ elevation including Peru’s tallest mountain, at 6,768 metres, Huascarán. In May 2017 I was keen on hiking and seeing amazing landscapes. I wasn’t getting too high though, after previously experiencing altitude sickness twice above 5,000 metres.

While visiting Huaraz I hiked Laguna Wicacocha and Laguna 69. For more serious trekkers, the region has many multi-day options including the classic Santa Cruz trek.

Following are my favourite photos of Huaraz and surrounds.

Laguna Wicacocha

South of Huaraz, the hike to 3,750 metre high Laguna Wicocha is a great half-day outing and altitude-acclimatiser. As a bonus, the views are fantastic.

Worker riding tricycle with trailer next to Laguna Wilcacocha and in front of snow-capped mountains

Worker riding tricycle with trailer next to Laguna Wilcacocha and in front of snow-capped mountains

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Visiting Peru’s Spectacular Cotahuasi Canyon

Alli, Joe and Heather in Cotahuasi Canyon (photo courtesy of Alli)

Alli, me and Heather in Cotahuasi Canyon (photo: Alli)

Between 2,500 and 3,500 metres from floor to rim, southern Peru’s Cotahuasi is one of the world’s deepest canyons. With amazing landscapes, waterfalls, natural hot springs and ancient terraces, the Cotahuasi Canyon is a hidden treasure that receives few tourists.

Cotahuasi, La Union, Arequipa, Peru Perspective Map

Cotahuasi is in Arequipa Region’s La Unión Province.

In April 2017 Cotahuasi Canyon seemed a distant, mysterious place off the beaten track. Upon hearing fellow Yes! Arequipa hostel guests Alli and Heather were going, I asked to join. Soon after, I was at Arequipa’s bus station buying a ticket to Cotahuasi Town, the La Unión Province capital and canyon gateway.

Cotahuasi Canyon Map Excerpt

Cotahuasi Canyon map excerpt featuring places visited on the trip including Cotahuasi, Luicho, Alca, Tompepampa, Sipia Waterfalls (Catarata de Sipia), Charcana and Quechualla

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Orchids and Waterfall in Soroa, Cuba

Soroa, 7 kilometres north of the Havana-Pinar del Río Freeway is a village known for both its waterfall and orchid garden. As fans of orchids the latter attracted Rocío and me and we made a detour to Soroa between Viñales and Havana.

Getting to Soroa from Viñales without private transport took two colectivos and then a Jeep organised by a tout from the mechanic near the Candelaria/Soroa junction. The travel logistics and costs are listed below this post.

Soroa Waterfall (Salto del Arco Iris)

The Soroa Waterfall has two entrances. The Jeep dropped us off adjacent the lower, southern one where we paid the 3 CUC (US$3) entry fee.

Entry signs to waterfall Salto del Arco Iris; entry costs Cubans 10 CUP (US$0.40) and foreigners 3 CUC (US$3)

Entry signs to waterfall Salto del Arco Iris; cascada is Spanish for waterfall; entry costs Cubans 10 CUP (US$0.40) and foreigners 3 CUC (US$3)

January is well outside the May to October wet season so the waterfall was a relative trickle. Despite this, the overhang and surrounding greenery still made a beautiful setting.

Soroa's waterfall Salto del Arco Iris

Visitors enjoying Soroa’s waterfall

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Wondrous Landscapes, Natural and Ancient Sites at Pitumarka, Peru

The scenery and views around Pitumarka in Ayapata District blew me away. Travelling from Macusani, Rocío and I accompanied guide Ulices and our Hilux 4WD driver for the first of two amazing day trips.

Seeing the glaciers, mountains, waterfalls, lakes, Andean geese, flamingos and other birds on the way to Taype was a great start. At Taype we turned off the main Ayapata unsealed road and drove past Lake Taype surrounded by mountains and potato fields.

Potatoes growing next to Laguna Taype, Carabaya, Puno, PeruLake Taype with potato fields in the foreground and mountains behind
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Hot Spring, Waterfall and Flash Mystery: Highlights of Ollachea

Ollachea is stunningly set amongst the mountains, large waterfall and ancient terraces. These surroundings along with the natural hot spring make the mining services town worth visiting. At 2,785 high, Ollachea’s elevation and climate lie between tropical San Gaban 54 kilometres north and tundra Macusani 49 kilometres south. Like San Gaban and Macusani, Ollachea is capital of its own district in Carabaya Province, part of southern Peru’s Puno Region.

In October 2016 Rocío and I came to Ollachea to relax in its natural hot springs and enjoy more wonderful trout. While visiting, my camera flash mysteriously failed. We also toured ancient sites nearby worth their own blog post.

Ollachea surrounded by the fog-covered Andes Mountains

A central Ollachea street with surrounding mountains blanketed by clouds Continue reading

From Andean Glaciers to the Amazon Jungle in one Spectacular Day

The journey from Ayapata to Puerto Maldonado was my most amazing and varied single day of travel ever. Seeing glaciers, tropical jungle and other magnificent landscapes all on the same day is hard to beat.

In late September 2016 Rocío and I wanted to get from Ayapata, Puno Region to Puerto Maldonado in Madre de Dios during daylight to view the scenery. There was no direct day transport, not even from Macusani. Using local advice, we reached our destination via the following steps:

  1. Ayapata to Macusani Bus Terminal: van
  2. Macusani Bus Terminal to Macusani Terminal Terrestre: mototaxi
  3. Macusani Terminal Terrestre to Lechemayo: van
  4. Lechemayo to Mazuko: mototaxi
  5. Mazuko to Puerto Maldonado: shared car

Ayapata to Macusani Bus Terminal by Van

Sheer mountains, Andes, Ayapata District, Carabaya Province, Puno, Peru

A mountain with sheer cliffs towers over this building between Ayapata and Macusani Continue reading

Partying and Pictures in Paraty

Paraty, Brazil

A stand up paddle board and paddles balancing on Paraty beach Praia do Pontal with stand up paddlers paddling on the water in the background

Founded in 1597, Paraty (also spelt Parati) is a historic town on the Costa Verde (Green Coast) between Rio de Janeiro and Sao Paulo. Once an intermediate port for gold travelling from Minas Gerais to Portugal, Paraty was neglected for much of its recent history. This neglect helped preserve Paraty’s old buildings, contributing to its current charm as a tourist destination. Continue reading