Damascus, Syria

Tuesday night Celine, Bangali and I viewed a jazz concert in the Aleppo Citadel. First, an Italian quartet played followed by a Syrian quartet. The historic setting, and mixed audience made the concert more interesting than normal. Will post photos/video when I return to Turkey.

Yesterday I came to Damascus to meet Jeff. After a pizza in a snazzy Damascene restaurant we went to his pad and then the US Ambassador’s residence for a 4th of July BBQ. Attending were US diplomats, their families and American students in Damascus to learn Arabic. Hot dogs, baked beans with bacon, burgers, brownies, US beer and choc-chip cookies were on the menu.

I’m about to jump in a service taxi to another location. Will write again soon.

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Aleppo, Syria

I’m writing from an internet cafe in Aleppo, Syria. To my disgust, the local next to is smoking his 6th cigarette since I’ve been here and I haven’t been here that long!

I came here overland (via Antakya/Antioch) on Saturday as the Mersin-Latakia ferry only runs Thursdays and Mondays. My 7th Syrian visa from this border cost 30 USD.

This trip has consisted almost entirely of rest and relaxation. Bangali and Celine are looking after me stupendously well. Celine’s first night roast lamb with garlic and rosemary, boiled whole potatoes in their skins with butter, and cherry sauce made from fresh cherries was a meal to die for!

One thing slightly annoying is the water outages. Each afternoon/evening the public water supply is cutoff and this lasts until early the next morning. Syria is facing a serious water crisis.

Yesterday afternoon I watched Bangali entertainingly play chess against various opponents in the intellectual cafe on Aleppo’s main square. The chess played was almost socialist with the players receiving help from onlookers whether they wanted it or not.

Tomorrow I will take the bus to Damascus to meet Jeff for the first time since his 2002 AIESEC traineeship in Adana.

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Mersin, Turkey – Latakia, Syria Ferry Restarts 28 June

The Mersin, Turkey to Latakia (alternative spelling: Lattakia; in Turkish: Lazkiye) Syria international ferry will restart on 28 June for the 2007 summer season.

In 2006 the ferry cost USD 48 one way and USD 96 return and ran Mondays and Thursdays, departing Mersin at 9 AM and returning from Latakia at 2 PM. I will update this post when I hear the prices and schedule for this year.

Thank you Christel for the tip!

UPDATE: The 2007 ferry schedule is the same as 2006’s: departing Mersin at 9 AM on Mondays and Thursdays and returning from Latakia in the afternoon on the same day. The cost is $65 one-way and $130 return, more than 30% more expensive than last year. Merlat sell tickets: telephone +90-324-237 1668.

NOTE: some advice from Adam in comments:

…these ferries don’t seem terribly reliable … the one on Monday 13 August 2007 was cancelled altogether. Check and double check, if you’re thinking of using it!

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Oman

I was going to do a big write-up about Oman and Australia but since the trip was so long ago, I’m just going to post pictures with short descriptions.

I found Muscat’s architecture interesting. Many of the buildings were similar to my childhood visions of what castles looked like.

A Muscat mosque. The above two photos were taken from Susan’s place.

Muttrah Harbour at night, Muscat.

HSBC’s Omani version of their “the world’s local bank” advertising campaign.

Oman is famous for its frankincense and myrrh. I bought a few incense burner packs from the Oman souq/bazaar in Muttrah. I’d have loved to have brought them to Australia but I’m sure Customs would seize them. The above photo is an optical illusion. The incense burner is gigantic in size and located on the top of the hill overlooking the bay.

I come from a land down under… The two songs I had on my mind the whole time in Oman were Men At Work’s Down Under and Dire Straits’ Sultans Of Swing. Oman is a Sultanate with a reigning Sultan who shares my birthday.

The former Sultan’s (the current Sultan’s father) palace, Muscat.

An Omani feast of crayfish, cuttlefish, kingfish, prawns, mutton, hummous, salad and 3 types of rice.

Susan’s regular taxi driver. The taxi drivers in Oman (or at least Muscat) are locals, unlike Dubai.

Dubai, United Arab Emirates


Dubai at night

This is a recap of my trip to Dubai in early February

Dubai is perhaps the most multicultural place I have visited. Along with the Gulf Arabs are foreign Arabs, Africans, South Asians, East Asians and Europeans. This variety of people and the associated cultures and foods were great changes from Mersin.


Wog is an impolite (often offensive) term in Australia

The cosmopolitaness may make Dubai sound soulful and full of character. However, this is not the case. From my observations, the city’s vast distances, lack of history, choking traffic, business focus and nationality/class discrimination combine to remove most of the city’s character.


Gold souq

The area with the most character I visited was the streets surrounding the gold souk where the mainly South Asians had their shops. In fact, whilst walking along a few back streets I was asked by 3 or 4 different pimps if I would like any ‘small ladies’. I politely declined each time.


The Mall of the Emirates’ ski lift (hi Bob the Builder)

Dubai is a unique place and definitely worth the visit for anyone into modern architecture, shopping and grandiose projects. It is a kind of gambling-free Las Vegas where the massive hotel-casinos are replaced by massive hotels and shopping centres. Las Vegas’ wealthy developers, desert location, fast cars, imported labour and quest to build larger and more fancier structures are all there in Dubai.


Nargile and fresh juice with Nermeen and her beach guard cousin

Nermeen, a very good friend of mine, drove me around Dubai. I first met Nermeen in Turkey when she was on her traineeship and then again in her home town of Alexandria, Egypt.


The Internet is censored in the Emirates

In Dubai I stayed at the Youth Hostel. The new wing was very clean and it was perhaps the cleanest hostel I have stayed in. I shared a twin room with another Egyptian. In true Dubai style, the room’s air conditioning remained continuously operating even though the weather was not hot and I would have preferred fresh air.

Highlights of Dubai:

* Having nargile with Nermeen and her cousin. The fresh mango juice was scrumptious.
* The variety of food. I bet Carrefour hypermarket in Deira City Centre had more styles of rice than the whole of Turkey.
* Everybody understanding English. Although Arabic is the official language of Dubai, English is more widely spoken. The English spoken, though, is a non-native version as attested by the ‘parking at rear’ sign below


Ha ha ha 🙂

* The ferry rides across the Creek


Dubai Creek

* Drinking a ‘Blue Frog’ cocktail in the British pub in Madinat Jumeirah. The drink contained 4 shots of spirits and was recommended by Nermeen, a lady who has never ever drunk alcohol.


The 2 Emirate Towers (on the left) at night

* Travelling up to the 40th-odd floor of both Emirates Towers skyscrapers


Too much gold is never enough at Dubai’s Gold Souk

* The amount of gold on display at the gold souk.


Burj al Arab

Burj al Arab

The Burj al Arab is the most recognisable symbol of Dubai. I visited the vicinity of the seven star Hotel but did not go inside. The hotel normally is lit up in many colours at night but as Dubai was still mourning the passing of its former Emir the building only reflected white lights. Next time I’m in Dubai I’ll visit the hotel area during the day and perhaps even go inside for a meal (providing I have money to burn).

Ironies And Coincidences From Istanbul To Dubai

Hi from the warm, multicultural, English-speaking, desert city of Dubai!

Here are a few ironies and coincidences surrounding the Emirates flight from Istanbul to Dubai:

a) The chicken (as opposed to the lamb) dinner was very popular on the plane. Popular enough for Emirates to run out of it. In Turkey, the flight origin country, people hardly touch chicken due to bird flu paranoia.

b) The plane flew over Adana, the city I originally flew from to catch this flight.

c) A saw the Australian film Moulin Rouge for the first time ever. This journey will eventually take me to Australia.

d) In Istanbul Airport duty free I bought Danish vodka. I did not make the Danish cartoon controversy connection until I read about the burning of the Danish Embassy in Beirut on the in-flight television.