Carnival in Cochabamba, Bolivia: a Riot of Colour, Movement and Sound

Cochabamba is a city in central Bolivia. Cochabamba is in the Andes but located in a valley so it’s altitude is only 2,500 metres. The city is not on the main tourist trail although it does have a Jesus statue larger than Rio de Janeiro’s. I did not come to Cochabamba for the statue but for the 2016 Carnival festival, as Cochabamba has Bolivia’s second best Carnival, after Oruro’s.

Carnival centred on a parade that went around the city’s centre. Along the route temporary stands were built just for this day, Saturday the 13th of February. I sat in a stand next to a television station’s event broadcast facility. Seats were expensive in Bolivian terms and many locals peered through the stands to glimpse the festivities. It was a hot and sunny day and the parade went for almost 12 hours, making the performers in their often heavy costumes sweat.

The parade featured dancing troupes interspersed by big bands. Some of the groups had practised all year in preparation for the day while others were not so polished. All participants were having fun, despite the heat.

2016 Carnival, Cochabamba, Bolivia

A kid spraying foam at an already drenched victim. Note the swimming goggles to protect his eyes

Spraying foam is only legal in Bolivia during Carnival time and kids (and some adults) had a great time spraying others and deploying water balloons and other weapons. I managed to avoid serious attack.

2016 Carnival, Cochabamba, Bolivia

Outrageous costumes featured in Cochabamba’s Carnival parade Continue reading

Buenos Aires, Argentina to Cochabamba, Bolivia: Long Bus Rides, Carnival and Amazing Andes Scenery

On the seventh of February, from Ushuaia at the very bottom of Argentina, I flew three hours north to Buenos Aires. The next day I caught a bus to La Quiaca, Jujuy Province, a town bordering Bolivia at the very top of the country. Carnival in Bolivia was calling!

The Balut bus took 31 hours to reach La Quiaca as rain, blocked roads and the Andes mountains took their toll. The Andes may have slowed the journey but they also provided stunning views.

Argentina to Boliva Andes

A diversion caused by a blocked road in northern Argentina

Argentina to Boliva Andes

A disused railway line next to a swollen river and an Andes mountain range Continue reading

Ushuaia, Argentina, the Southernmost City in the World

In early February, I flew from El Calafate to Ushuaia in row one, my first time up the front of the plane in many years. Aerolineas’ Premium Economy tickets were similarly priced* to Economy so it was an obvious decision to make.

*Argentina has a two-tier flight ticket pricing policy with non-residents paying higher prices for Economy class.

Ushuaia is the southernmost city in the world and a major gateway for cruise ships and research vessels to the Antarctica. Ushuaia is also the capital of Argentina’s Tierra del Fuego, Antártida e Islas del Atlántico Sur Province.

From Ushuaia there is a fairly standard Beagle Channel day cruise offered by many boats to bird, penguin and seal colonies. One morning I walked to the harbour, chose a boat, bought my ticket and jumped on board. Despite being so far south, the weather out of the wind was quite pleasant.

The Beagle Channel divides Argentina and Chile and the Chilean coast was visible for much of the trip including Puerto Williams, the southernmost town in the world.

Ushuaia, Tierra del Fuego, Argentina

An island bird colony near Ushuaia Continue reading

Perito Moreno Glacier, Patagonia, Argentina

The highlight of my visit to El Calafate in January/February this year and, indeed, one of the absolute highlights of my trip, was seeing the Perito Moreno Glacier in Los Glaciares National Park. The glacier’s awesomeness cannot be overstated. The mild and sunny weather on both days I visited accentuated the experience.

According to Wikipedia, a glacier is a persistent body of dense ice that is constantly moving under its own weight. Perito Moreno’s movement slowly pushes it against the land, causing various sized pieces of ice to fall off regularly. I was lucky enough to witness and record a giant ~50 metre high slab falling off the glacier (see video below). Every four or five years a bridge forms in the ice and crashes down even more spectacularly. The bridge last ruptured on 10 March, more than a month after I visited.

Perito Moreno Glacier, Patagonia, Argentina

The head of the Perito Moreno Glacier pushing against the land Continue reading

El Calafate, Southern Patagonia, Argentina

From Bariloche I took a 27 hour Marga late January bus ride south to El Calafate. For much of the ride I was the only person in the lower, more expensive cama level. The scenery varied throughout with the most interesting being between Bariloche to El Bolson and El Chalten to El Calafate. The food provided on the bus looked very average and I didn’t even bother unwrapping it. On a poignant note, Marga was also the nickname of my dearly departed maternal grandmother, adding extra meaning to the ride.

The highlight of a visit to El Calafate is seeing Perito Moreno Glacier and my two visits to the glacier are covered in a separate blog post.

El Calafate, Southern Patagonia, Argentina

The Marga bus between Bariloche and El Calafate Continue reading

Bariloche, Northern Patagonia, Argentina

In January I flew south from Buenos Aires to Bariloche, a picturesque town in northern Patagonia. Bariloche is place of lakes, mountains, chocolate, ice cream, berries and inappropriate signs (for anyone fluent in English).

Bariloche, Northern Patagonia, Argentina

Inappropriate sign # 1: Salon Cultural de Usos Multiples (SCUM) approximately translates to Multi-Purpose Cultural Centre. I’m sure most people who use it are not scum

Bariloche, Northern Patagonia, Argentina

Bariloche is located next to the navigable freshwater Nahuel Huapi Lake. In fact, the region is full of freshwater lakes Continue reading

The New Year in Mar del Plata, Argentina

On the 31st of December I left my Buenos Aires Spanish class early in order to catch a bus 5 or so hours from Retiro to Mar del Plata. Mar del Plata is a coastal city in Buenos Aires Province and one of the country’s main beach resorts and fishing ports. My final destination was a hostel in Playa Los Lobos, a coastal village between Mar del Plata and Miramar.

In Playa Los Lobos I met up with Brazilian friend Joana and we headed back to Mar del Plata to see what was happening there this new years eve. Our original plan was a Couchsurfing party but that was cancelled with short notice. Mar del Plata’s streets were quiet, the wind cold and restaurants either closed, full or expensive buffets. We eventually found an okay all-you-can-eat pizza place.

Mar del Plata, Argentina

Enjoying all-you-can-eat pizza in Mar del Plata

Following dinner we caught a ride back to Playa Los Lobos and joined others around a fire between the hostel and the coastal cliffs.

On new years day Thao, Sandra, Joana and I caught the bus back to Mar del Plata to explore the port area.

Mar del Plata, Argentina

Sea lions enjoying themselves in Mar del Plata port

Mar del Plata, Argentina

Sea lions and seagulls in the foreground and ships moored in the background

Mar del Plata, Argentina

Fishing boats by the dozen in Mar del Plata

Mar del Plata, Argentina

New years day night we enjoyed another night around the fire in Playa Los Lobos

Mar del Plata, Argentina

Colourful artwork covering a Playa Los Lobos bus shelter in front of our accommodation building with its orange roof

Mar del Plata, Argentina

Our 1 January fire was only metres away from these magnificent cliffs. It wasn’t until the next day that we realised high the cliffs were

Journey from Mar del Plata, to Buenos Aires

The region had received lots of rain previously as evidenced by the water lying in the paddocks on the journey back to Buenos Aires

Buenos Aires, Argentina

In mid-December I flew from Sao Paulo to Buenos Aires to take Spanish lessons and start my Argentinean adventure. Buenos Aires, shortened to Bs As by locals, is a large and grand metropolis with many different neighbourhoods. The architecture, parks  and monuments of Recoleta, where I stayed most of the time, gave the area a European feel. Below are some of my favourite photos of the city.

Buenos Aires, Argentina

Floralis Generica, a large sculpture with petals that open and close

Buenos Aires, Argentina

A group of people kneeling (praying?) in front of the imposing University of Buenos Aires Law Faculty building

Buenos Aires, Argentina

Argentinean steak has a fantastic reputation, one that steaks I ate in restaurants did not meet. Pictured above is the best steak I ate – perhaps the best I have ever eaten anywhere. This tender morsel was cooked at my homestay host Pilar’s relative’s house for a pre-Christmas party

Buenos Aires, Argentina

Christmas eve late lunch with fellow Spanish students (in Argentina dinner usually doesn’t start until after 9pm)

Buenos Aires, Argentina

La Recoleta Cemetery, the home of Eva Peron’s tomb along with that of many other important Argentinians

Buenos Aires, Argentina

There are five sets of pedestrian lights to cross to get from one side of the world’s widest avenue (9 de Julio) to the other

Buenos Aires, Argentina

Another view of 9 de Julio Avenue, this one featuring an image of Eva Peron on a tall building and many traffic lights

Buenos Aires, Argentina

Argentina’s poor contemporary economic history and import restrictions mean many old cars are still on the road including this classic ute seen in Palermo

Buenos Aires, Argentina

Dining with my former boss who was visiting Buenos Aires prior to moving to the city for her next job

Buenos Aires, Argentina

Centro Cultural Recoleta statues

Buenos Aires, Argentina

A couple playing guitars next to a monument and across from statues

Buenos Aires, Argentina

Dusk lighting the redeveloped suburb of Puerto Madera

Buenos Aires, Argentina

A fashion model in need of a good feed being photographed on a Puerto Madera bridge

I look forward to reuniting with Buenos Aires in a few weeks.