Sao Paulo, Brazil

Besides Pearl Jam and jet lag, I did manage to see and do a few other things during my time in behemoth Sao Paulo.

With Pablo at Vila Madalena restaurant

With Pablo at restaurant

On my second night, via a mutual friend (thanks Lucy!), I met Pablo, an Argentinean who has lived in Sao Paulo for a decade. Over beef picanha and a strong caipirinha cocktail Pablo provided an insightful introduction to South America, Brazil and Sao Paulo.

Brazilian steak sizzling at table

The picanha (beef) with chopped onions cooking over a flame (top of photo). Diners finish cooking the meat to their liking

Hostel Alice interior wall

An interior wall of the very friendly Hostel Alice, Vila Madalena

With my jet lag and post-trip tiredness, I hardly left Hostel Alice in the first few days. The very helpful and friendly hostel staff (Renata, Denise, Gabriele) and fellow guests (Joana, Marcio, Cassio) made it a home away from home.

ATMs at Sao Paulo’s main Guarulhos International Airport did not accept foreign debit or credit cards so I didn’t have Brazilian Rials for a few days. Luckily, the restaurant and hostel accepted cards. A bank nearby the Vila Madalena metro station appeared to only allow withdrawals up to R$500 (less than AUD$200) – something to consider for fellow travellers to Brazil.

Vila Madalena graffiti

Vila Madalena graffiti

Vila Madalena is a neighbourhood famous for its nightlife, culture and art. Towards the end of Rua Harmonie (the same street as the hostel) is an area full of graffiti art. A trip highlight occured when, while walking on the street, twice in two minutes Brazilians asked me for directions!

Standing in front of Vila Madalena graffiti

On my walk back to the hostel, another local not only knew I was a foreigner but guessed I was Australian due to my hat’s similarity to Mick Dundee’s from Crocodile Dundee.

Woman taking photo of girl in front of graffiti

A woman photographing a girl (her daughter?) in front of graffiti art, Vila Madalena

Steep street, Vila Madalena

Some Vila Madalena streets are very steep

Gelato, Vila Madalena

Always a winner: delicious tiramisu, passionfruit and cherry-chocolate flavoured gelato for lunch

Bromeliads and orchids attached to tree, Vila Madalena

Plants including orchids and bromeliads were attached to many Vila Madalena tree trunks

Painted bin and pole, Vila Madalena

Even rubbish bins are disguised in Vila Madalena

Women holding sign for job, Vila Madalena

Woman employed to hold advertising sign all day

"Australian bread", Sao Paulo

“Australian bread”

On my final evening in Sao Paulo, I caught up with Cleide from the Pearl Jam pre-concert party. The cafe we visited sold selected sandwiches made with Australian bread, a soft, light-brown bun. I don’t know how this bread came to be associated with Australia. I guess Australian bread is widely known in Brazil as the flight I took from Sao Paulo to Belo Horizonte also sold sandwiches made with it. Can anyone solve this mystery?

Theatre sculpture, Ibirapuera Park, Sao Paulo

Next to a lake in Ibirapuera Park with central Sao Paulo in the background

Ibirapuera Park is a major Sao Paulo landmark and, in a city lacking public space, a venue thousands of locals visit every day, especially on weekends. The park contains lakes, pavilions, monuments, museums, a running and cycling track and many other facilities. Keeping up the Australian theme, black swans live in the lakes.

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A sculpture in one of the pavilions

Contemporary art inside theatre, Ibirapuera Park,

Either another artwork or contemporary seating at an Ibirapuera Park pavilion

Hundreds of young people congregated in one area of the park. Amongst them were many young teenage (e.g. 13 to 16 years old) same-sex pairs flirting with and kissing each other.

Street from taxiing plane, Congonhas Airport, Sao Paulo

My plane to Belo Horizonte taxiing metres from the street prior to take-off from Congonhas Airport, Sao Paulo

I will return to Sao Paulo on this trip as there are many more things I would like to see and do including Liberdade (the Japanese district), free architecture and walking tours, the Central Market (Mercado Municipal) and museums and galleries.

My flight to Belo Horizonte departed from a different airport to the one I arrived at. Congonhas Airport is a domestic-only airport located closer to central Sao Paulo than the larger Guarulhos International Airport and my taxi from the hostel to Congonhas cost R$43, far less than a taxi to Guarulhos.

Perth to Sao Paulo via Abu Dhabi

I’m writing this from the friendly Hostel Alice in Sao Paulo, the Southern Hemisphere’s largest city and Brazil’s business and transportation centre. Although it’s obvious in hindsight, I didn’t realise Sao Paulo was named after St Paul from Tarsus in modern day Turkey, a town nearby my former hometown Mersin.

My journey from Perth to Sao Paulo took only two flights but an indirect route and long duration (36 hours). Cara kindly dropped my off at Perth Airport and there I boarded the 11.5 hour Etihad flight to Abu Dhabi. Etihad plane at Perth Airport

The Etihad plane taxiing to the gate, Perth Airport

Etihad’s service and modern plane impressed me although their food was average. I loved the provision of noise-cancelling headphones, particularly since I left mine home in the interests of reducing baggage weight and space.

Abu Dhabi International Airport

After touching down at Abu Dhabi International Airport

With 10 hours overnight in between flights, sleep was key. I knew Abu Dhabi Airport had sleeping pods and I went to find them. I guess I already gave off a backpacker vibe because, when asked about the pods, the information desk man showed me a price list to check if I could afford one before pointing me in the right direction.

Interior of Abu Dhabi Airport Sleeping Pod

My sleeping pod interior with the cover closed, Terminal 3, Abu Dhabi International Airport

After eventually finding GoSleep Sleeping Pods, the woman kindly offered eight hours for the price of seven. At AUD 95 (they accepted multiple currencies) for seven hours, I bet many backpackers do indeed choose a bench instead.

Abu Dhabi Airport Sleeping Pod

The open sleeping pod

The sleeping pod room was dark and somewhat noisy but the combination of earplugs and my excellent Hibermate Sleep Mask with Ear Muffs blocked out all noise and light. The six hours of sleep was golden and made this long journey manageable. Although expensive for what it is, I recommend the sleeping pods for anyone who needs a sleep and isn’t claustrophobic.

The view shortly after departing Abu Dhabi

The view shortly after departure from Abu Dhabi

Rivers near the West African coast

Rivers near the West African coastline

The 14.5 hour Jet Airways operated flight for Etihad from Abu Dhabi to Sao Paulo flew over a significant chunk of Africa and the Atlantic Ocean, both firsts for me. The African mountains, rivers and plains looked attractive from the sky and the continent is definitely on my future places to visit list.

When not looking out the window, I spent most of my time playing an addictive arcade game on Etihad’s E-Box entertainment system causing the system to crash twice from overuse.

Waters offshore Brazil contain some of the world’s deepest, most technically-difficult to extract and largest reserves of oil and gas. From the plane I was surprised at number and density of the drill ships, production platforms and support vessels.

First sight of the South American continent

My first ever view of the South American continent (and continental Brazil)

The South American continent came into view indicating my journey end and South American adventures start.

Sao Paulo from the air

This photo provides an indication of how massive Sao Paulo is

Jet Airways plane at Sao Paulo Airport

The Jet Airways plane after landing at Sao Paulo’s Guarulhos International Airport

After landing and going through Brazilian immigration, I was thankful to have prearranged a transfer through the hostel. Luckily Sao Paulo’s infamous traffic behaved itself and the journey into this mega city went smoothly.

Gili Islands, Indonesia

I recently visited Gili Air, one of the three Gili Islands (the others being Gili Meno and Gili Trawangan) close to the larger island of Lombok. Gili Air is a small island with a circumference of approximately five kilometres.

To get there I flew from Perth to Denpasar, Bali and then caught the Bluewater Express fast boat for the approximately 3 hours journey to Gili Air.

I had originally hoped to meet a friend who was giving yoga classes on the Gilis. Unfortunately, timing did not work out so we did not meet but I am very grateful to her for inspiring my trip. Thank you Emel!

I had a fabulous time on the island. My typical daily routine consisted of:

Morning:
Wake up before sunrise; go for a run around the island coast, admiring the stunning early morning light and reflections; return to Omah Gili Hotel for breakfast and shower; walk to H2O Yoga for a 90 minute yoga session.

Afternoon:
Visit restaurant Warung Lalapan, spend 20,000-30,000 IDR (a few dollars) on a delicious lunch and enjoy million dollar views; go to a cafe or my bungalow to read and think; return to H20 Yoga for another tough yoga class.

Evening
Enjoy dinner at a restaurant with other yoga participants or tourists I’d met; go to bed around 9pm.

On my final morning I hired mask, snorkel and fins and snorkelled just off the beach. Amazingly, there were thousands of fish across dozens of species swimming around the coral reefs. There were leather jackets, long and narrow fish, brightly coloured fish and various other combinations of shapes and colours. For several minutes a large school of small fish appeared to swarm all around me.

It was a fabulous trip and for anyone wanting a relaxing trip I can highly recommend Gili Air. Gili Meno is meant to be even quieter while Gili Trawangan has the most night life.

Gili Air is a very photogenic place and following is a taste of the island:

Meal: fried fish with salad and rice: AUD2.50; view: priceless

Meal: fried fish with salad and rice: AUD2.50; view: priceless; Warung Lalapan.

Paradiso outrigger boat in foreground, fisherman in background, Gili Air

‘Paradiso’ is an apt name for the outrigger boat framing the fisherman trying to net the morning’s catch. Lombok is the island visible in the distance.

Coconut palm trees at dusk, Gili Air, Indonesia

Coconut palm trees at dusk.

The view of the moon and stars from my bungalow's outdoor bathroom, Omah Gili Hotel.

The view of the moon and stars from my bungalow’s outdoor bathroom, Omah Gili Hotel.

Early morning reflection of Lombok from Gili Air

Early morning reflection of Lombok from Gili Air.

No auto-mobiles except for the odd electric bike are allowed on the islands so horse and cart is the main form of carriage. Early every morning, horse and carts go around the island to collect the rubbish.

No auto-mobiles except for the odd electric bike are allowed on the islands so horse and cart is the main form of carriage. Early every morning, horse and carts go around the island to collect the rubbish.

Lombok in the distance with a dining shelter in the foreground.

Lombok in the distance with dining shelters in the foreground.

The locals enlisted my help to push their outrigger boat onto the beach.

The locals enlisted my help to push their outrigger boat onto the beach.

While enjoying a wonderful Scooperific gelato, a boat arrived nearby and ladies started unloading what appeared to be heavy bags, possibly building material. I expect the boat came from Lombok, the Gili Island's major supply base. Most Gili Air women did not wear head scarves.

While enjoying a wonderful Scooperific gelato, a boat arrived nearby and ladies started unloading what appeared to be heavy bags, possibly building material. I expect the boat came from Lombok, the Gili Island’s major supply base. Most Gili Air women did not wear head scarves.

The wave approaching a sea urchin shell on the Gili Air shore. Note the coral pieces on the beach.

The wave approaching a sea urchin shell on the Gili Air shore. Note the coral pieces on the beach.

Many of the cafe and restaurant signs were humorous: "Free wifi fast like Ferrary but sometime slow like ferry".

Many of the cafe and restaurant signs were humorous: Free wifi fast like Ferrary but sometime slow like ferry.

Gili Air sunset over Gili Meno.

Gili Air sunset over Gili Meno.

Another fantastic sunrise to begin my final day on Gili Air.

Another fantastic sunrise to begin my final day on Gili Air.