The Uyuni Salt Flats and Other Amazing South-Western Bolivian Scenery

Unlike the journey to Potosi, travelling to Uyuni was a straightforward bus ride. Uyuni the town is a dusty place with little to note except for one thing – it is a major starting point for tours to the giant Uyuni Salt Flats (Salar de Uyuni). Salar de Uyuni and other landscapes in Bolivia’s south west are must-sees on the South American tourist trail.

I wanted to take the same Red Planet 3 day tour as Aubrey (and her friend Jenn), one of several friends I met at the wonderful Beehive Hostel in Sucre. I arrived to Uyuni on the evening of the 1st of April and, after checking in to my accommodation, looked for a restaurant. At a chicken restaurant, upon asking for a menu, I was told in Spanish, we have fried chicken. Obviously no menu was needed. Every local in the restaurant (all other patrons were locals) ate their chicken, chips and fried plantain with knives and forks – no finger-licking-good here.

The next morning I visited the immigration office to receive my post-dated Bolivian exit stamp, saving the need to queue at the border. Checking in at Red Planet’s office, I was delighted to be placed in the same vehicle as Jenn and Aubrey, along with a British couple. We travelled together in convoys of two Landcruisers. The five of us along with six women in the other car made for a great tour group.

The first tour stop was the Uyuni train cemetery, where trains built in the late 19th century lay abandoned.

Uyuni Salt Flats Tour, Bolivia

Posing on one of the old locomotives at Uyuni’s train cemetery Continue reading

Ushuaia, Argentina, the Southernmost City in the World

In early February, I flew from El Calafate to Ushuaia in row one, my first time up the front of the plane in many years. Aerolineas’ Premium Economy tickets were similarly priced* to Economy so it was an obvious decision to make.

*Argentina has a two-tier flight ticket pricing policy with non-residents paying higher prices for Economy class.

Ushuaia is the southernmost city in the world and a major gateway for cruise ships and research vessels to the Antarctica. Ushuaia is also the capital of Argentina’s Tierra del Fuego, Antártida e Islas del Atlántico Sur Province.

From Ushuaia there is a fairly standard Beagle Channel day cruise offered by many boats to bird, penguin and seal colonies. One morning I walked to the harbour, chose a boat, bought my ticket and jumped on board. Despite being so far south, the weather out of the wind was quite pleasant.

The Beagle Channel divides Argentina and Chile and the Chilean coast was visible for much of the trip including Puerto Williams, the southernmost town in the world.

Ushuaia, Tierra del Fuego, Argentina

An island bird colony near Ushuaia Continue reading

El Calafate, Southern Patagonia, Argentina

From Bariloche I took a 27 hour Marga late January bus ride south to El Calafate. For much of the ride I was the only person in the lower, more expensive cama level. The scenery varied throughout with the most interesting being between Bariloche to El Bolson and El Chalten to El Calafate. The food provided on the bus looked very average and I didn’t even bother unwrapping it. On a poignant note, Marga was also the nickname of my dearly departed maternal grandmother, adding extra meaning to the ride.

The highlight of a visit to El Calafate is seeing Perito Moreno Glacier and my two visits to the glacier are covered in a separate blog post.

El Calafate, Southern Patagonia, Argentina

The Marga bus between Bariloche and El Calafate Continue reading

Around Mariza Epicentro, Tucano, Bahia, Brazil

Photos from around Mariza Epicentro, including a hike to a nearby ravine and a memorable visit to the local village bars.

Around Mariza

Man riding a donkey on the dirt track next to Mariza Epicentro

Around Mariza

On the Sunday morning Kamyla, Marcio and I braved the heat and hiked to a nearby ravine

Around Mariza

One of many lizards on the ravine walls

Around Mariza

Myself, Kamyla and Marcio in the ravine

Around Mariza

Interesting rock formations caused by erosion in the ravine

Around Mariza

Marcio and Kamyla walking back from the ravine to Mariza Epicentro. Note the leather off-cuts used to stabilise the sandy track

Around Mariza

Sunday evening is the main night out in the local village. There are two village bars next to each other and neither of them have any advertising whatsoever on the outside. Every local knows they are bars so why advertise?

Around Mariza

Outside the first bar

Around Mariza

The bar area of the first bar. The poster to the right of the television is advertising a duet concert at a local farm. Duets are popular in this region

Around Mariza

A donkey underneath a mature cashew tree

Around Mariza

Vultures near the bus stop where I caught the school bus from Mariza to Tucano. An animal had died overnight and more than twenty vultures were hanging around the carcase vicinity

Mariza Epicentro, Tucano, Bahia, Brazil: Domestic Animals

Mariza Epicentro kept several species of domesticated animals including pigs, chickens, goats, sheep, cats, ducks and Geraldo the goose.

Mariza Epicentro, Tucano, Bahia, Brazil, Domestic Animals

Chickens eagerly awaiting a feed

Mariza Epicentro, Tucano, Bahia, Brazil, Domestic Animals

The juvenile pigs enjoying food leftover from the kitchen. The wooden contraptions around their heads are designed to stop their heads getting stuck in fences

Mariza Epicentro, Tucano, Bahia, Brazil, Domestic Animals

Geraldo the goose is one of the most moody and irritable things I’ve come across. He attacked people who came near him, managing to bite the cook

Mariza Epicentro, Tucano, Bahia, Brazil, Domestic Animals

The farmers and volunteers inspecting a sheep and goat trough at Mariza Epicentro’s secondary property

Mariza Epicentro, Tucano, Bahia, Brazil, Domestic Animals

One of the cats eyeing off cake

Mariza Epicentro, Tucano, Bahia, Brazil, Domestic Animals

Geraldo the goose bossing a duck. Cashew leaves frame the photo

Mariza Epicentro, Tucano, Bahia, Brazil, Domestic Animals

Cats at the food bowl

Mariza Epicentro, Tucano, Bahia, Brazil, Domestic Animals

The billy goat showing disdain

Mariza Epicentro, Tucano, Bahia, Brazil, Domestic Animals

Volunteer Marcio feeding the goats and sheep lower grade corn cobs

Mariza Epicentro, Tucano, Bahia, Brazil, Domestic Animals

Two sheep, one with wool and the other without. Like the pigs, one of the sheep has sticks around its neck to stop it from getting its head stuck in the fence

Mariza Epicentro, Tucano, Bahia, Brazil, Domestic Animals

Goats running around with a neighbouring property in the background

Mariza Epicentro, Tucano, Bahia, Brazil: Wild Animals

At the start of December I spent 9 wonderful days at Mariza Epicentro, Marsha Hanzi’s permaculture farm in the Tucano province of Bahia state, north-eastern Brazil.

This, the first of several themed posts, contains photos of wild animals from or near the farm.

Wild Animals, Mariza Epicentro, Tucano, Bahia, Brazil

A monkey eating watermelon. A group of monkeys regularly visited and hung around the property

Wild Animals, Mariza Epicentro, Tucano, Bahia, Brazil

A toad enjoying the cool water in Geraldo the goose’s bowl. Toads were also regular farm visitors, with signs on buildings requesting people to keep doors shut to stop them from entering

Wild Animals, Mariza Epicentro, Tucano, Bahia, Brazil

A dragonfly, one of various insects encountered at Mariza Epicentro

Wild Animals, Mariza Epicentro, Tucano, Bahia, Brazil

One of the monkeys walking on a wire fence

Wild Animals, Mariza Epicentro, Tucano, Bahia, Brazil

A ~2 metre long iguana resting in a tree above the chicken cage, likely waiting for an opportunity to eat some eggs

Wild Animals, Mariza Epicentro, Tucano, Bahia, Brazil

Many, many species of birds visited the farm including two species of hummingbirds. This is a silhouette of the larger hummingbird

Wild Animals, Mariza Epicentro, Tucano, Bahia, Brazil

Another of the larger hummingbirds having a rare rest on a branch during the hot afternoon sun. Most of the time hummingbirds hovered from flower to flower and plant to plant making good photos difficult to takeWild Animals, Mariza Epicentro, Tucano, Bahia, Brazil

A juvenile monkey looking sideways for food

Wild Animals, Mariza Epicentro, Tucano, Bahia, BrazilLizards were common sights around the property, particularly away from the cats

Wild Animals, Mariza Epicentro, Tucano, Bahia, Brazil

This birds nest containing two white eggs is not very high off the ground but relies on the cactus plant’s spines for protection from predators

Wild Animals, Mariza Epicentro, Tucano, Bahia, Brazil

Another toad, this one on the road at dusk

On the farm I also saw pretos, animals that looked like a cross between a rabbit and a rat. Unfortunately they scampered away too fast for a clear photo.

Pakistan Feast of Sacrifice

The last few days of my trip to Pakistan coincided with the first half of Eid ul-Azha (also known as the Feast of Sacrifice in English, Eid ul-Adha in Pakistan or Kurban Bayrami in Turkish).

Previously I have spent this feast in Sivasli/Antalya, Aleppo and Pamukkale/Selcuk/Izmir. In 2003 I just missed out on spending the feast in Egypt.

Just like in Turkey, the most obvious signs of the of the holiday were livestock (mainly goats, sheep and cattle) in unusual places. I even saw two goats in the centre of Lahore dressed in jackets with their legs sticking through the sleaves!


Livestock feed markets for animals prior to their sacrifice, on the side of a Karachi road


A soon-to-be sacrificed Brahman cow in Lahore’s old city


Goats in Lahore


A large livestock market on the outskirts of Lahore. Because of this market and the cars surrounding it my already late bus to Islamabad was delayed further.


I arrived back to Karachi too late to witness Hani’s family sacrifice a cow and a sheep, but, of course, there was still plenty of food left over from the barbecue.

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Karachi, Pakistan

Like Istanbul is for Turkey, Karachi is the financial, transport and trade capital, and a former administrative capital of Pakistan. However, unlike Istanbul, Karachi is not Pakistan’s tourist capital (that is Lahore).

Hani’s family company is involved in trade via Karachi’s two main ports.

Karachi is a vast, sprawling city. The weather was mild during the day and occasionally chilly at night. Many coconut palms displayed their fruits and eagles plied the air.

Surprisingly, on 2 or 3 different occasions I saw transvestites street walking in the evening.

A new mosque Continue reading