The weekend

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On Saturday evening Naoki finally arrived in Mersin. He was going to arrive in the morning but his flight from Istanbul was cancelled. He came to Mersin as a representative of IEC at DVC a language school at a Californian college. That evening, Ahmet, himself and I went to dinner at Et & Balik Restaurant on the coast road.

Oh yeah, was Saturday Valentine’s Day?

The following morning I picked Naoki from the Hilton and we went for a drive down the coast to the west. He went from Japan to study political science in Kentucky. He has worked for the college for 5 years. We enjoyed discussions about many issues including politics, culture and philosophy. After a coffee and cake at ‘Kahve Evi’ I dropped him off at work and went to the train station to pick up a bunch of people: Alejandro, Jiri, Karin, Devrim, Magda, Maria, Isabelle and Fabian – 8 people from 8 different countries.

We made it to Guzeloglu Tantuni for tantuni and then the local kunefe shop – for kunefe. It was getting late in the afternoon when we caught the bus to Kizkalesi down the coast and as the sun was setting, we disembarked when we saw the ancient Greek theatre and other ruins at Ayas. The weather was freezing and Karin kindly lent me her scarf and gloves – my hands were going purple.

After one or two adventures we made it back to Mersin on the dolmus. Most of the group caught the train to Adana whilst Devrim, Karin and I went to Devrim’s place in Pozcu for dinner. After dinner the power went out and in candle light we told jokes, some that could be put on this website in the interests of good taste 🙂

At around 10:30 pm I made a run for it home in the ccoooolllldd. My apartment was relatively warm as it received the sun during the day.

Snow!

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After I woke up this morning at 7:30 I went onto the balcony and snow was falling from the sky. The snow was very light and did not hit the ground, but it was heavier than the snow on Saturday. The last snowfall was in the horrendous winter of 2001-2002.

For the last couple of days, no Turkish city has had a predicted maximum temperature of more than 11 degrees according to the NTV weather news. Much of the country is under a blanket of snow, including Istanbul. In Istanbul, shipping through the Bosphorous (and Dardanelles) has stopped, schools are closed and business is significantly disrupted.

Click on the link to the right to see Mersin’s current and forecast weather.

The Kurban Bayrami Trip

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Finally, a week late, here is a run-down of my Kurban Bayrami trip.

On Friday the 30th Sevil dropped me off at the Mersin Otogar (bus station). There, after 7pm, I caught the Yeni Adana bus to Denizli (30,000,000 TL). Also on the bus were AIESEC trainees Fabian (Germany), Magda (Poland), Maria (Portugal) and Alejandro (Mexico). They had boarded in Adana. 12 hours after Mersin we arrived in Denizli. At Denizli Otogar we took a dolmus (minibus) to Pamukkale for the mineral terraces and the ruins of Hierapolis. The weather was overcast but bearable.

Pamukkale

In our 1 day and night in Pamukkale we:

-Visited Mustafa’s restaurant for breakfast and dinner. Mustafa is a character and told many stories. The one about the Japanese backpacker was particularly funny. The food and drinks are good and reasonably priced and one has to like the larger than life Mustafa.

-Walked around the white and off-white terraces of Pamukkale and the Roman ruins. During the day to 7 dogs followed us everywhere we went.

-Stayed at Meltem Guest House. In the evening we played the name game where everyone has a name stuck on their forehead that they don’t know and each person has to ask questions to find out who they are. ‘Stuart Little’ and ‘The Dalai Lama’ were particularly difficult for some people. That evening I started to feel sick.

On Saturday morning the others left to catch the train to Selcuk. I stayed back a few hours as I had a wonderful case of food poisoning. The toilet and Imodium became my temporary friends. This was my first case of food poisoning since 2002. I thought my body had adjusted to Turkey’s nuances. I do not know what caused the poisoning. I am almost certain it was the food from Mustafa’s as I shared the same plate with Fabian and he was perfectly fine.

Sunday was the first day of Bayram and the dolmuses were scarce. After a significant wait I finally caught one back to Denizli. There I took a Pamukkale bus company bus to Selcuk for Ephesus. On the dolmus and bus I observed many sheep and a few cattle in the various stages of butchering in people’s yards. This was particularly prevalent in the bushes.

Selcuk

At Selcuk Otogar a policeman and another man kindly helped ring Jimmy’s Place (the Artemis Guest House) who picked me up. Their website is very informative and practical for people wanting to visit Turkey. I found the section on hamams particularly interesting. A short time after arriving in my room, the AIESEC trainees knocked on my door. Reluctantly (I did not have great energy from the sickness) I went out for a walk with them around closed castle. Jen, the Australian working at Jimmy’s Place also came. Prior to traveling around Europe Jen was working backstage in Sydney. She was the first person, possibly ever, in Turkey to recognize my Port Adelaide Power scarf. One of the directors she worked with in Sydney was a big Port fan.

From the castle we managed to find ourselves inside one the outdoor museums. The security guard allowed us to exit the entrance without any damage caused, financial or otherwise. That evening at Jimmy’s Place, for the first time in 24 hours, I felt okay enough to eat (grilled vegetables – actually were fried). The movie after dinner was ‘The Full Monty’.

The next morning I relaxed in Jimmy’s Place whilst my companions looked around Ephesus. I had visited Ephesus previously and did not believe my physical condition nor the 15,000,000 TL entrance fee warranted a return that day. At the guesthouse an Irishman and a New Zealander couple provided good company throughout my stay.

In the late afternoon the trainees and I caught the train to Izmir on the second attempt. The first time we visited the train station we were told the train was delayed. The train, when it eventually came, was crowded with people traveling for bayram. A young girl entertained Maria and Magda – even giving hair clips as gifts. The novelty of foreigners will last for a long time.

Izmir

At Basmane train station we met Roberto, another Mexican trainee. He was generous enough to let us stay at his place. He also had instant gas hot water for the shower!!!! Made a great change from my hot water system. As a city on the Aegean, the architecture and people are different to Mersin. This was very noticeable. The old buildings are Greek influenced. Up until the early 20th century Izmir was very cosmopolitan.

Also in Izmir:

-We paid a few visits to Dijana (Croatia) and Edmund’s (New Zealand) flat in the center. Ed has had interesting experiences as a Chinese-descent English teacher in Turkey. He does not fit the stereotype Turkish people hold of native English speakers. Dijana grew up in the Bosnian area of the Former Yugoslavia but now lives in Split and regards herself as Croatian. I found her experiences living in such a dynamic area very interesting.

-We walked along the waterfront boulevard where there are many bars.

-Most of the bazaar shops were closed for bayram.

-Fabian left the group to visit the beaches and other places on the coast. Typical German 🙂

-To her great delight, Magda found another Polish speaker, a Turk, on a bus to Berto’s place. She was so excited to practice her Polish again.

-On my last night at Berto’s place we played cards until 4 in the morning. One card game was particularly enjoyable. I think it was called cheat. It was only on my last evening that I felt %100 recovered from the food poisoning.

-On Wednesday we bussed it to Blanco’s place in another part of Izmir. Blanco is a Mexican expatriate. From her place we hurried to the ferry terminal to head back to the center of Izmir. After the ferry we sat on the park bench watching the sunset across the bay – super!

-That night I left Izmir on the 7:00 pm bus to Mersin.

I managed to have one good night’s sleep before Ali, Maria and Magda arrived in Mersin from Izmir on the Friday morning. For lunch we ate tantuni and kunefe. Dinner was communal-made macaronia with cheese and sucuk (spiced sausage). Kerem came later in the evening and he was good enough to drive us to the coastal boulevard.

Overall, it was a wonderful trip and I loved my time with Fabs, Ali, Maria, Magda and supporting crew.

the quilted elf

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When I checked my website on technorati I find out my older sister, Shannon, has a blog on her website. I inspired the blog but I did not find out about it until 3 1/2 months after it was established!

Anyway, check it out. If I write about her blog here, maybe she will update hers more often (hint, hint).

Hashhash from Opium

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This morning I returned from Izmir on the 13 hour Mersin Seyahat bus straight back to work. I will write more about my trip later.

At my work and personal email accounts I received approximately 190 new emails. Most of them were not important and several were spread by the MyDoom virus.

Today I have eaten dried figs purchased in Izmir and ‘hashas‘ (pronounced ‘hushhush’) bread from the city of Afyon. The brown, fibrous and oily but delicious bread did not contain any poppy seed and was probably made with poppy straw. In Turkish hashas means poppy and ‘afyon‘, opium. The bus stopped in Afyon at around midnight. As well as legal poppy production, Afyon is famous for cream and Turkish delight.

The Kurban Bayrami Trip!

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From 1 to 4 February is is ‘Kurban Bayrami’ or the ‘Feast of Sacrifice’, commemorating the biblical time when Abraham was going to sacrifice his son for God but then saw a ram with with his horns tangled in the bushes and sacrificed the ram instead. This is one of the two main religious feasts/holidays in Turkey. The other is the end of the holy month of Ramazan (Ramadan) which, for 2004, will occur in November.

For Kurban Bayrami, every adult male or head of household traditionally sacrifices a sheep, goat or cow, killing the animal in a specified fashion. In the period leading up to the holiday herds of animals are commonly seen on vacant suburban land waiting to be sold. Some meat is consumed by the family and the remainding meat and skin is donated to the poor or charity. Some families, particularly in cities in western Turkey, forgo the sacrifice and instead donate money directly to the charities.

Like the end of Ramazan, Kurban Bayrami is a time of travel, of visiting friends and family. If they live in different areas of Turkey, often, this is the only time in the year when people see their extended families. This holiday, most of my neighbour’s family are reuniting together in Mersin from several parts of Turkey. I won’t be there as tonight I am on the bus to Denizli, southwestern Turkey. Choosing the trip was a difficult decision as I love my neighbours. In the end,

For the next five days I will travel with 4 Adana-based international AIESEC trainees. The plan is to visit the world heritage listed Pamukkale followed by the ancient city of Ephesus, Bodrum, Fethiye, Antalya….wherever else… The other participants are planning to travel until next weekend. I am coming back Thursday morning to hold up the fort at work. On Thursday and Friday there will be only 3 workers in the office instead of the usual 6 and only 1 English speaker (myself).

Personally, I am not overly concerned about the sights we see on the trip. My main attraction is travelling with some fun people and getting out of the office for a while.

This will be my first real travel since the trip to Syria in September!

Bayraminiz kutlu olsun!

Happy Holiday!

Speaking of culinary matters…

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Taner, the university student son of my neighbours has arrived back in Mersin for the holidays.

On Monday night I ate dinner with Taner and his family. Along with the fantastic moussaka-style eggplant with mince and tomato sauce was a form of pickled broccoli. I had never eaten broccoli like this. Taner (who turned 22 yesterday – happy birthday!!!) also had not eaten broccoli in this style. In fact, this was his first time EVER eating broccoli!

Broccoli was also new for his family and they asked me if I had eaten it before and how it could be cooked. They even wanted me to cook some for them. I plan to do so after the holiday coming up. Broccoli is not uncommon in Mersin and I was amazed Taner had not eaten it before.